@alarnabarry / www.artsthread.com/portfolios/three

Fashion Design Pathway

Alarna Barry is a Menswear designer with a focus on luxury sportswear.

Initial research into Tudor Sumptuary Laws focusing on garments was explored in great depth, in particular the corsets and corsetry construction techniques with its ability to show social class through construction method and fabric choices. As research developed the evolution of the corset was explored. How the corset once played a key part in showing a Woman’s wealth, to its journey into sports and loungewear. The corset was introduced as the base layer, boning was enforced to shape and hold a silhouette.

THREE is a menswear collection featuring layering. Each outfit in THREE features layering of three, supported with or without the aid of boning. The specific reference to womenswear results in a lack of history in mens corsetry. The lack of corsetry within menswear inspired an approach to menswear from a totally different perspective. It gave ideas and inspiration to create a tailored/ sportswear modern menswear collection.

@elisabetbender_fashion / elisabetbender.wordpress.com 

Fashion Design Pathway

Elísabet Soffía Bender is a womenswear designer, born and raised in Reykjavík, Iceland. Before studying at Leeds Art University Elísabet studied tailoring at Technology College of Reykjavík. She likes to use draping and creative pattern cutting mixed with tailoring to create her designs.

Elísabet mainly uses donated deadstock fabrics and scraps of previous university work to create her collection.  Elísabet’s inspiration behind the collection ‘Unrestricted Woman’ comes from Iceland, a country where women live with the luxury of exceptional gender equality. Young women grow up seeing strong female role models like: Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, the world’s first female president. Most women in Iceland seek to make feminism a part of their identity. Therefore the collection ‘Unrestricted Woman’ is influenced by the history of women’s rights and structured womenswear from the Victorian era. How women seek clothing as a form of empowerment and expression.

@millicent_design

Fashion Design Pathway

I am a final year Fashion Design student studying at Leeds Arts University. My collection has been influenced by the renaissance and baroque architecture of my travels to Italy and France. In my final garments, it draws focus to the bold architecture from the time periods. The use of floral patterning in my designs draws influence from the work of Botticelli and Michelangelo.

Strong silhouettes and floral patterning have been combined with my embroidery skills to create a bespoke collection that highlights the elegance, power and strength of the modern woman. With designers continually experimenting with fabrics and intricate details, my collection plays with tiered fabrics and hand and machine embroidery to create garments that emphasise and accentuate the feminine shape and look as individual as each of the women that wear it. The flashes of cobalt blue against muted floral tones makes the garments contemporary and timeless in design.

With all of my garments, firstly I hand paint the floral prints onto the fabric with acrylic paint. I used different sized motifs, some with intricate detailing and some without. I then used my machine to free embroider and then hand embroider on top of the floral prints to create a detailed textured finish to the fabric.

@sepulchre.fashion / sepulchre-fashion.carrd.co

Fashion Design Pathway

My collection is a contemporary, eclectic take on the visuals of Commedia Dell'Arte, inspired by the traditional Zanni costumes. The collection combines my love of historical context and imagery with my interest in fun, contemporary streetwear. For me, one of the most fascinating and alluring parts of fashion design is reconciling research and concepts with the human form.

As somebody with an interest in fine art, literature, history, sociology, and examinations of media, I am inspired heavily by these subjects and love to explore them through my designs; whether in a more playful and direct sense, or in a conceptualised and meaningful way.

While my love for research and context behind my designs is one constant in my work, a more aesthetic-based constant is my inclusion of large, billowy sleeves and ruffle detailing. I find this to be an iconic silhouette which allows me to reconcile my love for theatrical, feminine, historical fashion with the rest of my designs, which often draw inspiration from pragmatic contemporary streetwear. I often like to take a collage-like approach to adding print, frames, and background details to my design boards and illustrations to fully communicate my concept.

@lrc.fdp / www.artsthread.com/profile/lydiaclaxton 

Fashion Design Pathway

GRADUATE COLLECTION ‘FUTURE COMMUTER’ a/w 21.

Lydia Claxton is a British fashion designer due to graduate from Leeds Arts University this year (2020). Specialising in Menswear design, Lydia designs with a conscious mind, using sustainable resources and materials and much as possible, mixing traditional wool and tailoring fabrics with smart and technical materials and finishes.

The Initial research that inspired the collection was presented as a dissertation which explored the key components leading up to present day protective clothing, the need for different variations of protective clothing and the increased need for more wearable protective clothing. The research focused on the accelerated need for clothing protecting against the extreme elements due to continuing climate change effects and was written to address the negative impacts the fashion industry has on climate change such as overconsumption, and yet how in parallel to this, climate change is also negatively impacting the fashion industry. Sustainable fabrics used in the collection include deadstock wools and recycled nylons.

This research inspired the collection which creates a futuristic enhancement on everyday tailoring to create high-performing businesswear that creates protection from the elements, is practical, functional, and as sustainable as possible. 

@reececlaytondesign

Fashion Design Pathway

The work shown here is the line up from my final major collection, City of Steel, this collection was based around my Sheffield heritage and my families past as coal miners and steel workers.

The collection, shown conceptually here, took a mix of classic workwear silhouettes from the industry in Sheffield as well as contemporary menswear and workwear and combined the two to create a modern interpretation of the classic steel miller and coal miner look from years past.

The collection also pays homage to my Grandma and Grandad, whose photos I used for a firsthand look into their lives and my heritage.

@gracie_dsilva_ / www.artsthread.com/profile/graciedsilva

Fashion Design Pathway

Gracie D’Silva is part of a shift in attitudes, paving the way for a new era of fashion, one which is trendless, respects its workers and doesn’t require the need for 50 plus micro seasons a year. Seeking to erase previous approaches and setting a new normal for the industry with a refreshing, sustainable, ethical and Avant-grade approach. Transparent Waste, a Womenswear collection delivers a completely hand sewn collection, crafted from damaged cashmere jumpers. The use of upcycling a rejected piece of clothing on such a large scale allowed her to introduce colour in innovative ways through precise patchworking, decorating with seams of hand stitching. Celebrating craftsmanship and the labour that goes into each and every garment. Highlighting the environmental and ethical concerns surrounding the fashion industry. 

The concept behind the collection was born whilst completing placements in her final year at Fashion Revolution and Oxfam Online. Being shocked to see first-hand, clothing that had been over produced and then due to overconsumption being discarded, having to be shipped to developing countries. These developing countries are expected to then recycle the clothing. Gracie designs trendless, transitional pieces that stay contemporary and gain value over time rather than lose it.

@tazzidesign.studio / www.graduatefashionweek.com / www.fashioncrossover-london.com / showstudio.com/projects/class-of-2020 / www.artsthread.com/profile/tazdorodi

Fashion Design Pathway

Growing up as a girl in Iran, fashion was always a form of "protest". In Iran, women who make fashion statements can break the law and risk their lives. They use fashion as a form of resistance. I was initially drawn to the idea of "Restriction" and how social inequality between men and women is reflected. The fact that they didn't have a chance to voice their opinion. I want to emphasise how masculine women become in the sense of their lifestyle. During the process, the idea was to create both masculinity and femininity throughout the collection to fight for womens' rights and to achieve gender equality, a debate that has not yet been spoken or mentioned in any way. I have always been interested in womenswear tailoring and I truly believe:

"What gives a woman more power and visibility than a suit!"

Wearing scarfs (Hijab) is something that is forced in Iran's culture and for that I created my own printed fabrics to use as a symbol throughout my collection. I also explored a technique I have called the "vanishing scarf". Following the idea of the Islamic Revolution using the scarf as a complete cover of the "veil" - because of its versatility and ability to make the appearance more feminine and personal - remains in the collection, but it is used as other purpose during the practical aspect of the research.

The aim was to explore the shifting meaning of "fashion", particularly in relation to empowering women in society. It concentrated on fashion not just as clothes, but as power, and particularly the equality in femininity and masculinity it helps to build.

@miajenniferelliss

Fashion Design Pathway

The purpose of my work is to change people’s perceptions of fashion, influencing a change in buying habits, with a strong focus on sustainability. The aim is to motivate young women to make choices that are more cost efficient in the long run and aid in reducing the frequent buying behaviour pattern that is so apparent in today’s ‘Fast Fashion’ society. The current collection is made from sustainably sourced fabric remnants and deadstock. And each piece can be adapted in a variety of ways to promt consumers to buy less and wear more. 

I want to communicate to my audience that sustainable fashion is not only necessary but will enhance self-image and self-love. The concept being that we should be purchasing garments that we adore, something personal and different to each individual preference.

@vickyf_fashion

Fashion Design Pathway

Vicky Fang is a womenswear designer whose collection showcases a range of shirts and shirt dresses exploring a creative twist on the classic white shirt.  Adaptable elements in stripes and gingham check and pleated detailing add a fun twist to the collection.

@milligan_design / www.artsthread.com/portfolios/the-end-is-near

Fashion Design Pathway

Amelia Gill is a menswear designer specialising in technical practices. Welcoming her first collection; THE END IS NEAR (A/W 2021). In a new ‘Age of Anxiety’ she investigates the contributing factors of global instability and its correlation with social fears. In light of current ecological and political disintegration her collection aims to prophesize what lies ahead.

Her work primarily responds to social and political themes, most importantly the statement published by the Bulletin of Atomic Science, “Humanity now faces two simultaneous existential threats, either of which would be cause for extreme concern and immediate action. These major threats – nuclear weapons and climate change” (Bulletin of Atomic Science, 2019) Historically there has been a rise in dystopic ideas in creative practices, during the Cold war as global anxieties grew due to nuclear arms testing, over consumption and destructive global politics. Her collection sees a new generation of equally threatening anxieties.

@lauraelizabethbts / www.issuu.com/laurahenery / www.artsthread.com/profile/laura-elizabethhenery / www.fassion.co.uk/designer/laura-elizabeth-henery

Fashion Design Pathway

Romantic. Provocative. Classical. This is how you summarise the work of Laura Elizabeth. Influenced by Italian art, history, and literature, Laura tells a story through her high-end creations. 

Combining tradition with the unexpected is inherent to her style. Her graduate collection Lacrimosa is an excellent example of this, juxtaposing Renaissance opulence with contemporary bondage and then subverting it with Dante’s Divine Comedy. The connection between Laura’s immersion in the behaviours of the Renaissance and modern-day social classes, and their links to Italian Christianity may not be immediately visible to the naked eye, however her rebellious attitude and theatrical flair is. 

Although opulent, Laura's graduate collection is daring and dark. Gothic by literary definition, her collection exudes romance but maintains its mournful, melancholy mood. Gloomy eroticism is brought to life through references to Dante’s Inferno, reminding us that Death and Punishment will inevitably come for us all. 

Lamenting the death of what once was; of fashion, society, order and disorder; Lacrimosa personifies The New. 

@jasjones.design

Fashion Design Pathway

In terms of physical creations, my work cements its roots within a sustainable approach to fashion design through considering slow fashion techniques as well as ecological sourcing of materials. The collection 'Letters From June' consists of cleverly tailored pieces made almost entirely from end of roll and re-purposed fabrics and fastenings with the aim of creating timeless garments that will last.

My inspiration is pulled from the gathering of stories and images from the past as well as multi-media illustration and design processes. I love the freedom of expression that hand rendered drawing allows within design and have a very physical approach to my work as opposed to digital design. As such, my final collection showcases sketch and illustration work rendered in my signature line drawing style as well as a couple of more detailed sketches and a practical approach to garment construction.

As a creative, I am passionate about problem solving, environmental issues and also expressing my unique style through illustration and design. I aim to make things that are a 'labour of love': simple, beautiful and expressive.  My main interests lie in illustration, tailoring and sustainability.

@daniellejupp.design

Fashion Design Pathway

EVEN COWGIRLS GET THE BLUES DANIELLE JUPP AW21

‘Even cowgirls get the blues’ pays homage to early 1940’s American western work-wear that still has an enduring influence across the globe. This collection brings new life to the traditional ‘Western’ cowgirl attire through the use of cut; contrast and silhouette, injecting a prairie-chic feel into the once masculine structured silhouettes of the past. 

Being named after the iconic Gus Van Sant film, the collection screams western vibes from the get-go! Using black and white “westerns” of the 1940’s as a starting point, the collection portrays a unique take on what western fashion is known as today. Fancy chaps, fringed shirts, exaggerated yokes, sparkling rhinestone hats and giant belt buckles… this flashy rodeo attire had very little distinction between men and women’s styles. For AW21, these traditional western silhouettes and details are used to inspire the collection’s modern and feminine take on work-wear. 

Aimed at women looking for more flare and difference in their denim wardrobe, this trans seasonal collection offers unique pieces that are wearable and timeless. Lifting denim from its classic blue jean connotations this collection brings new life to the classic cloth and western scene.

@tasarlagan.designs / www.artsthread.com/portfolios/reborn5

Fashion Design Pathway

With fun comes responsibility and with abandonment comes consequence. Once neglected, now rediscovered, tents have been REBORN through clothing and given a new lease of life to cherish and preserve the memories once made.

Spring/Summer 2021 takes inspiration from Ladette and Festival culture. It wraps lost nostalgic memories into wearable garments; whilst conveying the boisterous and provocative feminine demeanour of a Ladette. Personal photography appears throughout the research to help connect with the concept to portray a solid vision.

The lack of commitment can be seen throughout the end of a festival, the overwhelming exhaustion from dance and laughter, combined with several sleepless nights, it seems that party goers can't face the challenge of dismantling their temporary home for the weekend. With the alarming aftermath of scattered litter and abandoned tents, it is evident that fun and responsibility do not go hand in hand. 

By sewing positive change discarded tents have been consciously reworked to inform unique designs. It brings an essence of make do and mend but in a modern approach. The collection intends to make people aware of the consequences their thoughtless actions have, whilst making the wearer rethink the ethics behind the clothing they wear.

Fashion Design Pathway

The initial idea to create the whole collection is how to combine the element of architecture and fashion together, sometimes it is easy to get inspired from interesting architectural shapes and structure, but in the world of menswear, it is certainly not easy to make it practical.

This is because menswear is mostly dominated by suit top and trousers. So the main idea is focusing on the layers and changing the shape of some panels. Also  the details is the main part of the design. Asymmetrical shapes and elements have been used massively, and it is key to present to the audience the beauty of asymmetric.

Fashion Design Pathway

Not just a pretty face

Motivated by the imagery of dance since childhood, came the marriage of fashion and ballet. Besotted with the ballet Swan Lake and juxtaposition of virginal and erotic characters became the focus of my collection. Swan Lake represented two different sides to a woman persona visually through colour palette and silhouette. The collection has played on the ideas of soft and hard texture though still using the given colour palette and silhouette. Using a hybrid of luxury and stretch fabrics have allowed the collection to have comfort which is key.

Making women feel sexy, powerful and hyper-feminine are key values of the brand. Volume and silhouette are core to the brands identity, taking copies amounts of fabric and hugging the body. Oversized pieces are caught in using gathering to create comfort tailoring essence.

@bethlovefashion / the-dots.com-beth-love / www.linkedin.com

Fashion Design Pathway

C.D.L.R: Graduate Collection

The concept of Chic de la rue, S/S21, specifically meaning ‘street chic’, is a combination of vintage, inspired elegance combined with a contemporary silhouette. With inspiration to the likes of Chanel’s infamous tweed S/S14 collection, combined with modernised trends of society, Chic de la rue represents a notion of fashion forward looks, that are inclusive to everyone. As a designer, this morale was most important to me to base my designs on.

Initially inspired by a swatch of neutral coloured tweed, I designed a concept of combining delicate and intricate fabric’s in a more wearable contemporary aesthetic.

Sturdy white denim marked and with harsh metal clasps and buttons played a key staple to this collection to achieve a contemporary, wearable vision. Contrasted with this, accents of vintage tweed were carefully featured and frayed amongst the harsh denim, highlighting a look of chic delicacy to the straight-edged shapes. Amongst the contrasting themes of modern and chic, bold colour placements of teal subtly appear on undergarments, highlighting the foreground of pure white denim dreams.

This collection aimed to be both ethically supportive, using donated deadstock fabric by Alexander McQueen and 100% organic twill; which makes this collection diversely wearable and suited to any wardrobe. 

Fashion Design Pathway

@bethmidgleydesign / the-dots.com/beth-midgley

Fashion Design Pathway

Beth Midgley’s collection ‘140BPM’ has been heavily influenced by the grime music industry and culture. With grime music been an important part of Beth’s everyday life she wanted to collection to represent grime music and change people’s perspective of the views which individuals have about the music genre, the people involved within the grime music industry and the garments which they chose to wear.

With grime emerging in East London it was important to show where the grime music genre was born. Embroidery is a key design detail shown throughout the collection and the tower blocks embroidered on the back of several garments represent where grime originated from. First airing on pirate radio stations from these tower blocks back in the early 2000’s they played a key feature in grime’s birth. Artists who first started out from these tower blocks are now some of the most influential artists within UK history. Nike was also a massive brand who influenced grime and the garments which they chose to wear as their ‘uniform’ which is another detail shown with the ‘KISS MY AIRS’ embroidery. 

@jesscoulsondesign / www.artsthread.com/portfolios/signs-of-the-times / the-dots.com/jess-morley

Fashion Design Pathway

Jess Coulson Morley’s eclectic collection ‘Signs of the Times’ has been inspired by her Yorkshire-Scottish heritage. She aims to celebrate the culture and migration that has made her family heritage, and society what it is today. A lively engagement with fabrics, textures and prints, paired with elements of Harajuku influence creates this whimsical collection.

Martin Parr’s documentation of British culture has been an important point of research throughout, particularly in ‘Signs of the Times’ which is the collection’s namesake. This photographic series by Parr depicts personal taste in British homes in the early 90s. In addition to this, personal family photographs were curated as primary research. Garments draw references from net curtains, faux fur upholstery, satin bedspreads and curtains - exploring the idea that ‘the pleasures of taste are never innocent of class’ (Jon Cook, 2000). 

@rheafnawab

Fashion Design Pathway

I am a womenswear designer that uses illustration to inspire and develop my design ideas. Illustration and 2D work have always been my string suit, but my three years at Leeds Arts University has helped me appreciate the feeling of seeing my 2D ideas communicated into 3D tangible garments.

My extended practice final collection celebrates strong female icons from the 1960s. Using Mary Quant as my main source of inspiration. She popularised high hemlines with the introduction of the mini skirt on 1964. My collection named ‘Futuristic Femme’ plays with weights of fabric and moves away from conventional fabrics such as jersey etc, where I am mainly using PVS and leatherettes, giving the garments a futuristic vibe. Hence the collection name. 

Fashion Design Pathway

My collection is about continuing collective African culture from where genuine, defiant creativity was left off through contemporary fashion with inspiration from the past based on the stories told by people from a select African countries including Zimbabwe, Gambia, South Africa, Nigeria, Senegal, Kenya etc.

As well as the sewing and drawing geometric shapes onto my garments, I painted portraits on the garment of people who represent Africa and its journey. She also chose to use shades of blue and threaded shapes in red, blue and yellow. The introduction of paintings also helped expand the colour spectrum and incorporated the freedom of expression through abstract painting behind the portraits.

@lucyneedsdesign

Fashion Design Pathway

I often draw inspiration from the world around me, both through my travels as well as nature itself. I use this to inform my work: the experiences and images which I have captured along my way is reflected within my projects through colour and fabric choices. This is a key aspect throughout idea generation, drawing on my own experiences and interpretation of the world around me to create an impactful and personal collection.

The graduate collection ‘Exhale’ is about taking a minute, relaxing and not letting the everyday stresses get the better of you. To express the ideas behind ‘Exhale’ the loungewear collection has been created with a focus on well-being, by providing comfort for the wearer through soft  silhouettes, soothing textures and calming colours. 

The ocean is the main inspiration behind the collection, to highlight the positive links between nature and well-being. Varying tones of indigo used alongside fresh off white/cream tones, contrasted with tie-dye effects, helps to create a soothing, calming aesthetic to the collection. The surface pattern detailing has been created using traditional home-dyeing techniques to introduce complimentary tones reflecting the calming effect nature can have on an individual. The loungewear aesthetic to the collection hopes to encourage the wearer to feel comfortable and at ease.

the-dots.com/sophie-newdall

Fashion Design Pathway

“The Life He Lived” is a collection which takes inspiration from 1920’s workmen and their lives throughout a turbulent decade. This collection creates a visual recognition of the stages of a mans life at this time through the use of cut, colour and detail. It showcases a contemporary menswear collection inspired by this time.

This collection includes multiple staple pieces, creating a capsule wardrobe for the Autumn and Winter months. Fabric choice and detail pays respect to the 1920’s influence. A main detail shown in all the garments is the detachable element. With one garment having detachable pockets to one having detachable layered shorts. This enables the consumer to have an multi-functional piece of clothing, ultimately purchasing a garment that can be more than one thing. The designer continuously using inspiration from the workmen in the 1920’s who would have a lot of tools to carry around and would find makeshift ways they could attach this to their clothes.

“The Life He Lived” is the perfect balance between high end menswear and affordable luxury. With extreme skill gone into the development and care of the collection it creates unique and inclusive array of menswear garments. 

Fashion Design Pathway

I am an aspiring Pattern Cutter who focuses on creative pattern cutting, specifically draping on the stand. This method allows me to intuitively explore three-dimensional shapes. The fabric, shapes and body all influence the pattern and design so there is no way to know what the final garment will look like.

My influences come from shapes and lines, whether that’s in architecture, sculpture or paintings. Draping on the stand leads me to unique shapes and designs and allows me to combine shapes with pattern blocks in a more visual way.

This collection was based on sculptural shapes. There is a synergy between shape and drape which creates movement and Sinuous Lines. This collection is for the person who loves glamour and has a strong sense of their style. These garments are timeless, worn on special occasions, passed down from one generation to the next. The silhouettes are vivid and elegant. The asymmetry featured in this collection continues in the dresses that curve, flow and wrap around the body and would flatter different body sizes. Making all the garments reversible gives flexibility.

Fashion Design Pathway

@charlisenior_ / www.artsthread.com/carlisenior / the-dots.com/charli-senior

Fashion Design Pathway

Women of the Future 

Charli Senior, is a contemporary womenswear designer, whose practice explores themes of sustainability and innovation in her efforts to reject fast fashion and seasonal trends. Acknowledging the importance of environmentalism and animal welfare within fashion, she works entirely with plant fibres, that are ethically sourced from local UK/EU based suppliers. Focusing specifically on the issues of water pollution, Charli has combated environmental issues surrounding this. Experimenting with bioplastic to create compostable buttons as a replacement to conventional fastenings; Whilst her interest in bio-design has led to her exploration into alternatives. Such as the use of bacterial pigment dyeing. Her approach to toned-down styling, oversized silhouettes and understated beauty can be mistaken for minimalism. However, this key focus on craftsmanship and fabric choice are considered decisions, with the purpose of representing her ethos towards responsible design.

Fashion Design Pathway

Superficial and Deep is about the emergence of science, art and fashion. Demonstrating that creativity is present in any process which involves shaping and combining materials to produce something with greater value.

Superficial and Deep encourages educational concepts behind the garments which are seen so publicly and daily, being advertised on our very own bodies. This collection intends to counteract the normality of the human body being purely the canvas or hanger to which we display our clothing choices. The human body will no longer be the canvas in this project, but the inspiration.

Our body comes in an endless variety of beautiful silhouettes, skin tones and textures concealing all the multiple complex systems we are, allowing us to function and live. One of these infrastructure systems is the muscular system. This system is so crucial to our living as it allows us to explore, live our passions and be creative, therefore the muscular system is what this project is celebrating in particular. Superficial and Deep, the name of this collection, in fact refers to the two variations of muscles, the ones which are visble to the human eye and the ones which are not. The unique shapes of these individual muscles have been included throughout the creative pattern cutting process of this collection, as well as mimicking the textures and malleable characteristics in which they possess with different fabrics. Furthermore, taking a very different approach to other inspiring designers such as Rhian Soloman who continues to challenge the concept ‘where body ends and clothing begins.’ Due to the ethos of this collection stemming from an academic topic  which we all associate with, it was imperative that this collection included all genders and sexes. Superficial and Deep is a collection for all.